Djibouti is the ideal location for the eco-traveler who wants a truly and ruggedly sustainable experience. The unusual landscape has little largescale development, offering a refreshing opportunity to be truly “green.”
- By Pamela Grant

Djibouti is not a country typically promoted as a travel destination spot. Located in the Horn of Africa, the country is largely undeveloped except for Djibouti City. It has an unusual and somewhat stark landscape that is filled with remarkable natural formations and geological oddities, reflecting the fact it is part of the Afar Triangle where tectonic plates meet. The country that is smaller than Massachusetts has been turning its sites on attracting eco-tourists who want a truly sustainable experience. A trip through the rugged landscape is an unforgettable experience that makes travelers swear they have been to Mars or the moon and back.

Wander Like a Nomad
It is necessary to understand the strange and stark landscape to understand what the Djibouti eco-travel experience promises the brave of heart. In the Afar Depression, there is black volcanic rock, extinct volcanoes, salt lakes, and limestone chimneys that regularly release steam from the bowels of the earth. It also holds the third-lowest point on earth and the lowest point in Africa. Lac Abbé is a salt lake that sits on the border with Ethiopia and is the end point for the Awash River. The limestone chimneys left behind when the lake dropped 20 feet due to irrigation practices and droughts may look familiar. They appeared in the original Planet of the Apes movie.

Almost all the development to date is in Djibouti city, but eco-travelers will want to leave the city behind because it is the only way to experience the remarkable landscape of the tiny nation. Even as major chains build hotels in the city, nomadic tribes still wander the barren landscape, giving visitors an opportunity to experience life as it has been for thousands of years. The country is considered safe, but it is wise to hire a guide because the hinterland is filled with natural treachery for the uninitiated. For example, there is quicksand and fumaroles around the base of chimneys. Like natural hot tubs of steaming water, the steaming pools are really the inner earth bubbling up to the surface. The chimneys are created by deposits from the hot springs.

Eco-travelers can live like a nomad for a while by sleeping in a traditional Afar hut. The huts are built with natural materials. Branches are entwined and bent to form a dome and a woven mat is placed over the top to keep the elements out. There are camps where eco-travelers can meet and visit in large tents equipped with rudimentary furniture and equipment. Because the tourism industry is not well-developed yet, interactions will locals may elicit friendly smiles, but locals have not developed “tourist villages” that cater to visitors. They simply live their lives as they have done for many generations, herding goats, visiting the salt plains, and traveling in caravans.

Head High or Low
The Djibouti climate is hot, reaching 122 degrees Fahrenheit at times. There are mountains where slightly cooler air is found, and they do offer a chance to visit Afar villages and mingle with the residents. The Goda Mountains are northwest of the Gulf of Tadjoura and have plenty of hiking opportunities. They are also the biggest area of greenery in the desert country, though do not expect lush forests. Located approximately 19 miles from the Gulf of Tadjoura, the Day Forest national Park or Forêt du Day National Park, was established in 1939 and harbors rare birds and vegetation. The tectonic plates are moving so the deep canyons are slowly but regularly changing their appearance.

Lake Assal, a crater lake, is 570 feet below sea level and holds the distinction of being the saltiest lake outside Antarctica. The salt from the lake is a source of income for the local residents. Surrounding the lake is a dry white bed of salt that is continually created by lake water evaporation. Hikers walk the salt crusted shores, an unusual experience. Lake Assal is accessible by a four-wheel drive vehicle, and a glimpse of Afar nomads transporting sale with camels. Near the lake is the dormant Ardoukoba Volcano, a stark reminder that this country is still under geographic construction.

Swim with the Wale Sharks
After a guided tour of the desert region and one or more nights in a tent camp, even eco-travelers may want to see the city. Djibouti City is the country’s only real city, but surprising to the uninitiated is its French influence. The country was formed by France in the late nineteenth century during the colonial era. Djibouti became independent in 1977, and the French expanded their presence again during the Gulf War. The large French military presence has been a source of income for the country, as has the only African U.S. base. The port is another source of income in that Djibouti handles Ethiopian imports and exports and provides transport facilities for several landlocked African countries that fly in goods for re-export.

Just because Djibouti City is developed, there are plenty of eco-tourism opportunities, like snorkeling the volcanic reefs to spot native fish species. However, it is a sighting of the whale shark that is so exciting because people actually swim with the gentle giants. They filter plankton for food so are not dangerous except for perhaps their size. A short 20-minute drive away is the Decouvrir et Aider la Nature (Discover and Aid Nature) animal refuge. The wild animals were rescued from illegal caging, and visitors will spot gazelles, cheetahs, caracals, ostriches, and many others. Entrance fees go towards park maintenance.

Djibouti is quite different from other countries, including those in Africa. Its remarkable landscape is distinctive and constantly changing, and that is part of its charm. The money spent for Djibouti guides or in Djibouti City is money well-spent on a secret that is not likely to stay secret much longer. The government is working to expand its tourism industry, so it is likely more people be adding this country to their travel buck lists.